deer resistant

Pachysandra as Evergreen Groundcover

One of my former neighbors persisted in trying to grow Pachysandra as a groundcover under his oak trees. Tray after tray of plugs arrived and were planted in spring, only to die by fall. He finally relinquished his preferred plan and planted variegated Bishop’s Weed (Aegopodium podagraria) instead. Also called Goutweed, Snow On The Mountain, or Ground Elder, Bishop’s Weed is an aggressive, invasive groundcover that is difficult to eradicate once established. I suggest you avoid it.  Given the neighbor’s difficulty in growing Pachysandra, imagine my surprise last year when I stumbled across a large (forty feet by seventy feet) patch of it growing on a woodland bank near my creek. In May, it looked like a large emerald blanket, and even draped over the creek bank like a curtain. This week, it shows the ravages of extreme cold and too much rain, but it is still an effective groundcover. I have no doubt that it will return to its former glory when temperatures warm in spring.

 There are two species of Pachysandra. Allegheny Spurge (Pachysandra procumbens, pronounced pak-ih-SAN-drah pro-KUM-benz) is native to the southeast. It is evergreen to semi-evergreen, and cold hardy in zones 7-8. It grows in rich, moist, acidic soil, in dappled shade to full shade. It is not invasive. This is the variety that is living happily in my woodlands. It averages nine inches tall and has not been browsed by deer, despite heavy populations in this area.

 Like other plants we have adopted from the Land of the Rising Sun, Japanese Pachysandra (Pachysandra terminalis, pronounced pak-ih-SAN-drah ter-min-AL-iss) tolerates a wide range of temperatures (zones 5b-9a) and is a more aggressive grower than the native type. It may grow up to a foot tall but is typically shorter, and spreads by underground rhizomes. ‘Green Sheen’ is especially heat tolerant. ‘Green Carpet’ is a mounded uniform form that lends itself to edging for shady beds.

 Both the above species bloom in spring, but the flowers are not particularly eye-catching. Bees love them. Pachysandra is in the same family as Boxwood and shares some of its susceptibility to scale, leaf spots, and root rot. Don’t overwater, and if dead or diseases patches become apparent, remove them before the problem spreads to the rest of the bed.

Big box stores usually sell Pachysandra in trays of 2-inch plugs. Tease them apart carefully to avoid damaging tender roots. Place plugs six inches apart for rapid coverage, or up to a foot apart. Even at the wider spacing, ground coverage should be complete in three years. when grown in moist shade and fertile soil. Be careful to avoid constantly wet soils.

Deer as Dreaded Dinner Guests

Last Thursday, I counted more than forty blooms on my hydrangeas. By Saturday, all the flowers were missing as well as most of the leaves. These were shrubs that I had propagated four years ago from cuttings – my babies. They were protected, or so I thought, by an assortment of wire cages fashioned from leftover sections of assorted farm fencing. Everything outside the wire barriers was gone, decimated by hungry deer. The loss made me wonder why I stubbornly persist in growing deer candy: hydrangeas, hostas, daylilies.

Deer populations are becoming concentrated as native habitats are being cleared for new housing construction. I am happy for them to live in my woodlands and eat all my acorns, but I really, really want them to leave my cultivated garden areas alone. There are many recommended deer deterrents to be found across the internet. I have tried Irish Spring soap, human hair, and motion-activated sprinklers. None of these have succeeded in my garden. My growing areas are too large and too far apart to make fencing (electrified or traditional) practical. Applications of Milorganite® and stinky products like LiquidFence® are effective, but they must be reapplied after every rain.

The use of plants with strong scents can be as effective as chemical repellants. Lavender, society garlic (Tulbaghia), blue star flower (Ipheion), rosemary, catmint, marigolds, lemon balm (Melissa officinalis), yew (Cephalotaxus) and boxwood (Buxus) can be incorporated into mixed beds. Deer also avoid butterfly bush (Buddleia), beauty berry (Callicarpa), lamb’s ears, hellebores, salvias, and bearded iris.

Deer are creatures of habit. Once they have an established travel pattern, they tend to walk the same paths daily. If this path coincides with cultivated garden beds, those beds will be browsed regularly. Anything to disrupt the regular route will steer them away from the garden. This can be a physical deterrent like fencing or something a little more mundane. If you do not use the clumping form of kitty litter, empty your cat’s litterbox along the track, and encourage your dogs to defecate in the vicinity.

Despite deterrents, repellants, and specific plant choices, remember that a starving deer will eat anything, including the plants listed above. And tastes vary. What some groups of deer will avoid, other herds will gobble up. It’s enough to turn a vegetarian gardener into a venison-lover.