Autumn bloomers

Don't Discard Your Fall Mums

Long-flowering, colorful Mums are ideal for adding spots of bright color to the autumn garden. There are 30 different species in the Chrysanthemum genus, broadly categorized into “florist” mums and “hardy” mums. They are further broken down into different types of blooms: cactus, cushion, anemone form, incurved, intermediate, Korean, pom-pom, spider, reflex, single, others.

All Chrysanthemums demand full sun, rich soil, and regular water. Container specimens must have good drainage to prevent root rot. Plants have a shallow root system, and may need daily irrigation during the hottest part of the summer. Flowers come in a wide range of colors: yellow, orange, burgundy, purple, bi-colors. Good air circulation will prevent leaf issues. Plants are perennial in zones 5-9.

In garden beds, pinch plants back often in spring to keep them compact and get more blooms. Stop pinching in late June so they have time to develop bloom buds. Bud formation is triggered by the shorter days of late summer and early fall. Divide plants in spring, every two or three years, discarding the woody interior section and replanting the vigorous outer portions. Plants can be propagated from cuttings.

Potted (“florist”) Chrysanthemums are found at big box stores and grocery stores in the fall. These have been greenhouse bred and chemically treated to keep them short and light manipulated to make them bloom on cue. They are typically not as cold-hardy as the selections grown for borders. Gardeners in warmer zones can keep them in a freeze-free area through winter, then plant them out into the garden in spring. Some will survive and return the following year, but they won’t ever be compact like their original supermarket form. Plants may bloom much earlier (May or June) and be much taller (24-30”).

Chrysanthemums are toxic to humans, horses, dogs, and cats. Their pungent foliage makes them less likely to be browsed by deer or rabbits.

Toad Lily Heralds Autumn's Onset

When Toad Lilies start to bloom, I know that autumn is arriving. Toad Lily is a common name for either Tricyrtis hirta (“Hairy Toad Lily”) or Tricyrtis formosana (“Formosan Toad Lily”). It is difficult for me to distinguish between the two visually. Leaves of Tricyrtis hirta are noticeably hairy to the touch. The flowers resemble small orchids, with inner petals and outer sepals that look like petals. Most are white with purple freckles, about one inch across. They can be held individually, but usually occur in clusters. Upward-facing flowers form on arching stems, above alternate leaves held in a ladder-like arrangement. Plants may reach 36 inches but are usually shorter. The intricate flowers are best appreciated when viewed up close. Site them near patios or seating areas if possible.

Toad Lily likes partial to full shade and acidic-to-neutral, moist soil with plenty of organic matter. Hirta is cold hardy in zones 4-8; formosana is cold hardy in zones 6-9. In the Mary Snoddy garden, they pair well with hosta and ferns. They will spread slowly by seeds or rhizomes, and are not invasive. Tricyrtis is pronounced tri-SUR-tiss.

Bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds visit the flowers. Plants are occasionally bothered by aphids, which can spread a viral disease, or by anthracnose fungus, which causes orange spots on the leaves. Use soaker hoses rather than overhead watering to prevent anthracnose. Treat aphids with an insecticidal soap rather than a chemical insecticide to avoid harming pollinators. Rabbits like to nibble on foliage. I use Milorganite in the Snoddy garden as a deer repellant, and it seems to have kept the bunnies away also. Now if I could find something non-toxic that would repel voles…

Toad Lily.JPG
This Toad Lily is just beginning to bloom. Note the overlapping leaves along the stem. The swollen nodes along the stem are buds, waiting to open into flowers.

This Toad Lily is just beginning to bloom. Note the overlapping leaves along the stem. The swollen nodes along the stem are buds, waiting to open into flowers.