Help Your Garden Survive a Heatwave

The southeastern US has been melting under a heatwave over the past weeks. Last month, I provided some recommendations to help you select heat tolerant plants for next year. But what can you do here and now to protect your current garden from turning into a crispy frizzle? There is one big DO and two DON’Ts.

Water is the number one thing you can apply to save your garden. I have always heard that watering should be done early in the day to reduce evaporation and to discourage disease by avoiding wet foliage overnight. This is manageable if you have an irrigation system, but many of us do not. And if you have a job with work hours that take you away from home in the morning, it is difficult to find available early time to give everything a good soak. In that case, water when you are able. The earlier in the evening, the better. Soaker hoses apply water at ground level, while overhead sprinklers’ efficiency is reduced by increased evaporation. For plants that are prone to mildew (Zinnias and Bee Balms, for instance), I am careful to water the soil and not the plant. Broadleaf plants like Rhododendrons and Gardenias seem to appreciate their leaves getting a shower.

This year, I have seen major infestations of spider mites. Using a sharp stream of water to knock out their webs will reduce their numbers. Aphids can also be dislodged by a stream of water.

Deep irrigation takes more time but is far better for plants than the frequent application of light amounts of water. No matter how much water the gardener applies, nothing beats a natural rain shower, but thunderstorms drop water in heavy, concentrated bursts that results in run off instead of soaking into the soil.

And now for the don’ts: During a heatwave, restrict pruning to the removal of spent flower heads and damaged limbs. Wait for the heat to abate before doing significant cutbacks. This is also not a good time to fertilize. Drought-stressed plants cannot take up nutrients. Pushing a plant into a growth spurt without the application of plentiful water is damaging to the plant.

As a last resort, erect a temporary screen to shade plants from the harshest, mid-day to afternoon sun. Newly installed plants or those with a lot of tender new growth are most prone to leaf scorch. Cardboard or cloth supported by stick or stake pushed into the ground can serve as a makeshift plant parasol. Remove these as soon as soon as the heatwave passes or bear the scorn of the neighbors.

Take care of yourself in the heat, too. Sunscreen and a hat can go a long way towards protecting you from painful sun damage. When the heat index goes above 100, catch up on indoor reading garden magazines and seed catalogs. Pay attention to plant descriptions that include the words heat tolerant and drought tolerant for improved success next year.

Heat Survivors

A record-breaking heatwave is punishing the southeastern US right now. Yesterday’s heat index in my area was 105 and today is projected to feel like 107. At these temperatures, gardeners and their plants both wilt after 9am. I walked around the garden last evening before sundown, and made note of those annuals and perennials that seemed no worse for their exposure to Nature’s furnace blast.

 I am including photos of several of these stalwart survivors in the Snoddy garden. No weeding or deadheading has been done due to the heat.

Here is a list of heat survivors, in no particular order:

• Butterfly bush, Buddleia davidii (I grow the dwarf, sterile variety)

• Spider flower, Cleome hassleriana (tall, fragrant, attracts evening moths)

• Cosmos (easy annual, perfect for a child’s first garden)

• Coneflower, Echinacea purpurea (butterfly magnet)

• Blanketflower, Gaillardia

• Gomphrena, a personal favorite annual

• Lantana camara (another butterfly magnet)

• Four O’Clocks, Mirabilis jalapa (opens at night, fragrant)

• Turk’s Turban, Malvaviscus

• Brown-eyed Susans, Rudbeckia triloba

• Purple Heart, Tradescantia

• Melampodium, another personal favorite annual

• Butterfly Weed, Asclepias tuberosa (host plant for Monarch butterfly larva)

• Shasta Daisy, Leucanthemum superbum

• Goldenrod, Solidago (native, favorite of pollinators)

• Wormwood, Artemisia ‘Powis Castle’ (repels deer)

• Bee Balm, Monarda (deer resistant)

 When you plan for next year’s garden, consult this list and include at least a few to help your flower beds survive heat waves.

Blanket flower (Gaillardia), Zinnia, yellow Melampodium, purple Gomphrena, yellow Goldenrod, dwarf Red Hot Poker

Purple Coneflower, Echinacea

Clockwise: Daylilies, Red Hot Poker, new Puppy, Zinnia, Butterfly Bush, Artemisia, Purple Heart

Butterfly Weed, Asclepias tuberosa

Clockwise from top: Goldenrod, Red Hot Poker ‘Poco Red”, Melampodium, Gomphrena

Brown-eyed Susan, Rudbeckia triloba

Salmon Four O’Clocks, Mirabilis jalapa, next to Incrediball smooth Hydrangea. Forgive the insect damage - I don’t use insecticides on pollinator plants.

Lantana ‘Santana’ looks pretty even when it is not blooming.

Chitalpa, An Improved Version of an Old Hybrid

I occasionally splurge and buy intriguing plants for which I have no intended location in my garden. Such is the case with El Niño® Desert Orchid, an intergeneric cross between Southern Catalpa (Catalpa bignonioides) and Desert Willow (Chilopsis linearis). Normally, I avoid horticultural Frankensteins because several years ago I blew the majority of my seasonal budget on Echibeckia, a breeding mashup between Echinacea and Rudbeckia. I had always succeeded with Coneflowers and Black Eyed Susans, so I thought this newcomer was a gardener’s dream. Alas, my plants all failed to thrive (translation: they died during their first season). Desert Orchid convinced me to take another risk.

The pink-to-purple flowers of the Desert Orchid make me think of a love child between snapdragon and orchid. The fuzzy throats add to the beauty. Fragrance is an added bonus. Plants are deciduous, hardy in zones 6-9, long-flowering, heat and drought tolerant, and deer resistant. The label indicated a mature size of 15-20 feet tall and 10 feet wide. I purchased three last fall, each in a 2-gallon container. I planted them in well drained soil and  full sun, and hoped that they would survive. They lasted through their first winter and have already almost tripled in size. I am not certain that mine will show blooms during their first year but they should flower heavily next spring and then intermittently through the rest of the summer.

As I researched the Desert Orchid, I ran across an article in Fine Gardening Magazine – Issue 223 that explained that this intergeneric cross is nothing new. It was first accomplished in the 1960’s but the results were disappointing. Plants were often plagued by mildew. In the 2000’s, North Carolina State University Mountain Crop Improvement Lab resurrected the plant cross, with the intent of improving the end result. Much work and selection continued until 2023, when El Nino™ was declared the best. It was named Plant of the Month (September, 2024) by the University of California Agricultural and Natural Resources.

The growers say that El Nino will flower on new growth, so I plan to cut it back hard in winter and fertilize gently in the spring. This should result in plenty of new growth for the best flowering, and the cutback will keep the plant to shrub-size instead of tree-size.

The accompanying photographs are from the Proven Winners website, https://www.provenwinners.com/plants/chitalpa/el-ni-o-desert-orchid-chitalpa. The trademarked name is El Niño® Chitalpa   'NCXC1' USPP 35,880.

A Verbena For Every Garden

Verbena (pronounced ver-BEE-nah) is a popular garden plant due to its ease of growth, low maintenance, and heat tolerance. There are more than 250 species. Most grown in home gardens are hybrids, Verbena x hybrida.  A long-time favorite cultivar is ‘Homestead Purple,’ which stands alone as a groundcover or works well as a spiller in a container combination. Other cultivars are available with flowers of pale pink, hot pink, bright red, white, peach, and the occasional bi-color.

Verbena x hybrida has a long blooming period and large flowers consisting of flat-topped clusters of individual florets. Plants are cold-hardy in zones 9 and warmer. Elsewhere they are enjoyed as annuals but may return in cooler zones after a mild winter, especially if planted in a protected area. Hybrids are easy to find in nurseries and big box stores. Plant forms range from tall and thin to low and spreading. The upright forms do well in borders, while the trailing forms make an attractive groundcover or hanging basket. They pair nicely with Summer Snapdragon, Angelonia.

Verbenas enjoy full sun and well-drained soil. Plants are drought tolerant. Do not overwater or roots may rot. Butterflies and other pollinators love the flat flower clusters, while deer rarely nibble them. Verbenas tend to flower at the ends of their stems, so by mid-season plants may have a middle with few or no flowers. Gardeners can prevent this tendency toward legginess with an occasional pruning of a few stems. No deadheading is necessary but removing spent flowers will keep the plants looking neat and will encourage more blooms. Superbena® Verbenas, from Proven Winners™ have been bred to resist the powdery mildew that occasionally plagues older cultivars, with increased drought tolerance.

Verbena bonariensis, commonly called Brazilian Verbena or Verbena on a Stick, is a tall variety that can reach up to four feet or more. Its appearance is markedly different from the flat, spreading form of Verbena x hybrida. Its small lavender flowers are held at the top of long, thin stems while its narrow leaves are clustered near the ground. It is a short-lived perennial, grown as a reseeding annual. It has escaped cultivation and spread across the southeastern states, earning a place on the invasive lists in NC, SC, GA, AL, FL and LA. I grow this one in my pollinator area, and while it does spread around a bit, I would consider it aggressive but not invasive.

Verbena hybrids are good plants for new gardeners. They look wonderful planted in masses.

This newly planted container pairs a hot pink hybrid Verbena with pink Pentas and a pink Euphorbia ‘Shades in Pink.’ This combination will tolerate heat and not demand daily watering except on the hottest of summer days.

This brilliant purple Verbena is ‘Enduro Purple,’ an improvement over the old ‘Homestead Purple’ cultivar. Photo by Jim Robbins, used under CC BY-NC-ND 4.0

Tall “Verbena On A Stick,” Verbena bonariensis.

Native Sundrops to Stabilize a Slope

My garden has a steep incline leading away from the house. We had switchback paths graded into the slope so that we are able to zig-zag down to the creek without mountain-climbing gear. The slope is semi-terraced by the paths. Rainfall plays havoc with the area, washing away the chips on the footpath and occasionally moving the heavy tree trunks positioned to stabilize the edges of the paths. Our deer, foxes, and bears use these flat walkways to travel across the area.

I have established a number of showy shrubs, bulbs, small trees, and perennials along the switchbacks. In my imagination, I see this as evolving into a specimen walk. Right now, I’m concentrating on huffing and puffing up the slope more than the progress of the plants. Because I am a thrifty gardener, my plantings are all tiny when first installed. I am confident that they will either thrive… or die. I allow new plants three years to settle in and demonstate success. I may choose to relocate a few disappointments to different sunlight exposure, but there are too many good plants available to tolerate poor performers. Over the past four years, I have lost a few: Illicium floridanum ‘Florida Sunshine,’ (planted in too much blistering sun), yellow ‘Sunshine’ Ligustrum sinense (not enough water), and ‘Emerald Green’ Arborvitae (all their bark and most branches removed by deer). 

I am trying to be smarter with my plant purchases these days by drafting a “musts” list and a “prefer” list before I hit the garden centers. For this area, plants must prefer full sun, and be deer resistant, drought tolerant, and low maintenance. I would prefer native, spreading but not invasive, long-flowering plants that are attractive to pollinators.

I just purchased and planted six Sundrops, also known as Narrow Leaf Evening Primrose. Native Oenothera fruticosa, pronounced ee·nuh·THEE·ruh has bright yellow flowers that are open only during daytime. It spreads but is not invasive, unlike the pink flowering Oenothera speciosa (UGH!) that I waged war against for years before I could eradicate it.

Sundrops are a drought-tolerant pollinator plant that is reputed to be deer-resistant. The slightly cupped flowers of Sundrops provide nectar for hummingbirds, and birds eat the seeds. They will grow in most soil types and most pH ranges, full sun, in zones 4-8. References say that they bloom from April through August, which is longer than many perennials. They flourish in heat and are used to stabilize soil on slopes. They can play a prominent role in rock gardens, native gardens, cottage gardens, and meadows. I’m looking forward to seeing how long-flowering they are in an area with zero irrigation.

A hedge of Sundrops. Photo by Leonora (Ellie) Enking CC-BY-SA 2.0

Great Plant with Identity Issues

I have found the perfect groundcover for sloped garden locations with poor clay soil and no irrigation.

Mezoo is a succulent, trailing annual plant that typically grows to six inches tall or less. In fertile soil and with a little irrigation in dry periods, it may spread to six feet wide. It has fleshy leaves and small flowers that are a bright red or pink color. The succulent stems can be brittle, so if any repositioning is desired, it should be done when the plant is young.

Mezoo will thrive in a wide range of soil types. It is tolerant of both full sun and partial shade. Its drought tolerance makes it a great choice for xeric gardens. Mezoo is a versatile plant that can be used as a ground cover, as a border plant, in hanging baskets, or as a container plant.

Mezoo is low maintenance, susceptible to few pests or diseases, and requires no pruning or deadheading. Mealybugs and spider mites can occasionally be a problem. Mezzo turns to mush with the first hard freeze but established plants will tolerate a light frost. It will not withstand foot traffic.

This is one of those rare instances when I identify a plant only by a common name. I have seen it offered in nurseries as Baby Sunrose, Heartleaf Ice Plant, and Livingstone Daisy. In reference materials, it is listed as Aptenia cordifolia, Dorotheanthus bellidiformus, and most recently, Mesembryanthemum cordifolium 'Variegata'. I may be confused as to the correct binomial identity, but there is no confusion over its beauty and its ability to bring beauty to a difficult planting site.

Mezoo is easily propagated from stem cuttings. My current collection was started from a single plant purchased several years ago. I have already started cuttings for next year to overwinter in my greenhouse. The variegated edge to its leaves means it will brighten a dark area and draw attention to the shrubs it surrounds.

A closeup view of Mezoo’s flowers.

Mezoo in a hanging basket

Photo taken 11/4/2024, after a four week period without rain. This bed is located at the top of a slope. The fleshy leaves of Mezoo contrast nicely with the spreading Yew and does not war with the adjacent variegated Ajuga.

Warm Yarrow to Brighten a Cold Day

The US is blanketed by cold weather this week. My Camellia japonica was covered with flowers. Now they are blackened and sad. I visited my photo files to find something to make me remember the warmth of summer, and ran across pictures of Yarrow.

Yellow Yarrow is a heat tolerant plant beloved by pollinators.

Achillea millefolium (ack-uh-LEE-ah mill-ee-FOH-lee-um), commonly known as Yarrow, is an easily grown, heat-tolerant perennial for full sun. It has finely divided grayish foliage. Almost leafless stems terminate in flat-topped clusters of many (20 to 25, on average) small blooms. The straight species can become weedy or invasive, but the hybrids sold in garden centers are mostly sterile. Flowers come in pastels, yellow, white, red, purple, and orange shades. Yellow is the most common color and it ages well. ‘Moonshine’ has lemon-yellow flowers.

Yarrow has a long bloom period, from summer to frost. Plants can be deadheaded to encourage more flowering. If they become messy or foliage begins to brown or look tattered, an aggressive cutback will spur new growth. Yarrow likes a neutral pH and well-drained soil. While easy to grow in loam or sand, clay soils should be amended with organic matter to increase drainage and avoid excessive moisture that may lead to root rot.

Yarrow is a great plant for pollinator gardens, xeric gardens, and evening gardens, where the gray foliage remains visible at dusk. It mixes and mingles well with other plants, and can be sprinkled among cottage garden beds as a see-through plant. Deer avoid them.

This photo was taken in mid-June of last year, in the botanical gardens of Spartanburg Community College. The fine flowers of pale yellow Yarrow pair nicely with the bold flowers of Rudbeckia and the red accent of Salvia. A gray Artemisia provides contrast, like a condiment adding spice to a bland meal.

Jewels for the Flower Garden

Talinum paniculatum, commonly known as Jewels of Opar, is a small succulent plant that can have a large impact in your garden. The chartreuse foliage contrasts beautifully with dark groundcovers like Ajuga ‘Black Scallop’ or Ajuga ‘Chocolate Chip,’ and looks great paired with purple petunias. Fine stems support small, pink flowers. The round purplish seed heads that follow are just as attractive as the flowers. It is now classified in the family Talinaceae, formerly Portulacaceae. Like members of the Portulaca family, established plants withstand both heat and drought.

Talinum is native in the warm southeastern U.S. (NC to FL) and Latin America. It is cold tender where I live (zone 7b), dying with the first hard freeze, but reseeds so readily that it functions as a perennial in the typical garden. It hardy in zones 9-11, and even into zone 8 if the winter is mild. If you want plants to reseed, do not remove the spent flowers and their resulting capsules. Each small, round seed capsule contains numerous, tiny black seeds. Seeds saved from the prior year can be scattered in spring where they are intended to grow as soon as the chance of frost is past. Any extras are easy to pull up.

Jewels of Opar tolerates a wide range of sunlight and soil fertility. For the brightest yellow-to-chartreuse leaf color, give plants partial shade. Full sun makes the leaves turn a darker green, while too much shade results in a weak, leggy plant Mature plants average 18-24 inches in height. Plants prefer a sandy, well-drained soil but tolerate clay well. Richer soils result in a taller plant. Leaves are reputed to be edible as a spinach or lettuce substitute, but I have not eaten any of them so I cannot offer an opinion.

In the dappled shade of crepe myrtles, Talinum (Jewels of Opar) offers a nice contrast to Ajuga and Hosta.

Flowers appear on thin stems

Talinum in a mixed bed of annuals

Blanket Flowers for Color in the Heat

Gaillardia x grandiflora is a hybrid between G. aristata and G. pulchella). Commonly known as Blanket Flower, hybrid Gaillardia (pronounced gay-LAR-dee-uh) is a short-lived perennial in zones 7-10. Plant heights range from one to three feet tall with a two-foot spread. It has hairy leaves and produces bright, daisy-like flowers that bloom in a wide variety of colors, including red, orange, yellow, and purple. The flowers are typically 2-3 inches in diameter and have a central disk surrounded by bright single color or bicolor petals. Plants often produce flowers from spring to fall, especially if deadheaded. Leave a few dead heads in place as a treat for goldfinches, who love the seeds. Plants may reseed themselves. Cut flowers last a long time in the vase. Flower centers remain attractive after petals fall, and can be used fresh or dried in flower arrangements.

Plant Gaillardia in full sun only, in neutral soil. Plants dislike poor drainage and will decline in heavy or too wet soils. They are drought tolerant once established, and are a good choice for a xeric garden or pollinator garden. They are rarely browsed by deer or rabbits.

I went to the nursery last week with no intention of purchasing Gaillardia ‘Spintop Red’ but somehow these ended up in my list of purchases. What kind of doofus plants perennials in the midst of a heatwave? THIS kind, apparently. I love the prickly seedheads, right, as much as the flowers.

Cleome, Tall Flowers for the Back of the Annual Border

Cleome (klee-OH-mee) or Spider Flower is a tall plant for the back of the border. Its pink, white, rose or purple flowers open gradually, with the spent stamens developing into long-stemmed seed pods with a spidery appearance. Young palmate leaves mimic Cannabis. Older varieties reach heights of five feet and have sharp thorns hiding along stems to surprise the unwary gardener. Newer cultivars are shorter and have been bred to be thornless.

Cleome grows fast from seed; purchased seedlings may be rootbound and not transplant well. Seeds are best planted in full sun where plants are to grow. Keep seeds moist for three weeks. Plants are heat- and drought-tolerant thereafter.

Cleome reseeds readily but is not invasive. Older stems become leggy and leafless at ground level, so it looks best when planted behind a shorter plant that will hide its base. Older varieties of Cleome flowers have an unusual, lemon-musk fragrance that is more noticeable at dusk. A few people find the scent offensive. Thornless cultivars have lost the scent, too. Flowers attract bees and Sphynx months, large insects that can be mistaken for hummingbirds. Plants are deer-resistant. They look especially nice when planted in large drifts. Self-sown seedlings are often too dense for plants to reach full size. Thin them to a spacing of 12 inches.

To avoid potential for disease, remove plants once they are killed by frost. Rotate plant locations after a few years to avoid attracting harlequin bugs, a relative of the stink bug.

This image shows Cleome buds (top), open flowers (middle) and unripe seed pods (bottom). The long, narrow pods will mature to tan before they burst open to release ripe seeds. Each one of the pods contains 10-15 seeds. Remove the unripe pods if you want to prevent reseeding.

White Cleome pairs well with almost any other flowers

Lacebark Elm Trees - Lovely Bark

I fell in love with a parking lot tree last year. It had the most amazing bark, with an exfoliating habit that revealed tan, cinnamon, and gray patches all at once. The fall color was gorgeous, showing yellow, orange, and rust all at the same time. I’m watching that tree leaf out this spring, and nothing has dampened my affection. The tree in question is a Lacebark Elm, Ulmus parvifolia.

Lacebark Elm makes a good street tree. The one that caught my attention last year is among a group of twenty or so located in planting islands in an asphalt parking lot. They are known for their tolerance for heat and air pollution. They are easily moved, and adaptable to any soil type, acidity, and moisture level. Trees are hardy in zones 5-10. The parking lot trees that caught my attention are U. parvifolia ‘Drake.’ Plant them in full sun to light shade.

Mature Lacebark Elms will reach to 50 feet in height and width. Several dwarf cultivars are available. Their flowers are insignificant, but their seeds are samaras – papery, winged seeds that float in a circular pattern and make one want to play “helicopter.” Those seeds, while pretty and fun, are a downside. They are messy and seem to sprout everywhere if they land on mulched areas. This is not an issue in an asphalt parking lot, but it might cause problems in a home garden location.

Lacebark Elm has slightly weak wood, so locate them where they will not be bombarded by heavy winds. It is resistant to Dutch Elm disease, elm leaf beetle attacks, and Japanese beetle damage.

Early fall color of Lacebark Elm

Trunk colors of Lacebark Elm

Lacebark Elm showing off its early spring leaves. They will darken to a deeper green in another month.

A "Pot of Gold" for the Garden - Coreopsis

Coreopsis (pronounced kor-ee-OP-sis) is a group of native perennials with bright, daisy-like flowers and a clumping habit. Most Coreopsis have yellow flowers, but hybridizers have introduced new cultivars with flowers of burgundy, rust, red, or bi-colors. ‘Moonbeam’ and ‘Zagreb’ are two of the best yellows. Coreopsis verticillata has a narrow (“threadleaf”) foliage.

Locate plants in full sun or mostly sun, in well-drained neutral or acidic soil, zones 3-9. Plants attain heights of two to three feet. Individual Coreopsis flowers are small but the plant will cover itself, putting on a show. The size of the flowers make deadheading tedious. Once most flowers have faded, use clippers or hedge-trimmer to decapitate the spent blooms and their stems. Plants will regenerate and rebloom.

Coreopsis tolerates heat and humidity. They attract pollinators but not deer. Their airy appearance makes them a good choice for a cottage garden, a native garden, or children’s garden.

Coreopsis verticllata, Threadleaf Coreopsis

Three Types of Celosia

If you have never started annual flowers from seed, let this be the year you begin. One of the most rewarding (easy to germinate, long blooming, humidity tolerant) is Celosia, the National Garden Bureau’s 2023 Annual of the Year. Commonly called Coxcomb, this colorful, low maintenance plant should be in every garden.

Celosia argentea (pronounced sell-OH-see-ah ar-jen-TEE-ah) blooms are grouped into three main classes. Plumosa or plume-type have flowers that look like fluffy paintbrushes. Spicata or spike-type have narrow blooms that look like spikes of wheat. Cristata or crested-type have convoluted flowers that make me think of brains or coral. All three grow in full sun or mostly sun and neutral soil, zones 2-11. They prefer moist, well-drained soil but will survive in less favorable soil if given fertilizer and water. Extended dryness will cause the leaves to wilt, detracting from the beautiful flowers that come in yellow, red, rose, pink, orange, and magenta. These are long-lasting in arrangements, and will hold their color well if dried.

Seeds are available for each of the three bloom types. Celosia seeds are small – one gram measure will contain about a thousand seeds. Start with pre-moistened seed starting mix. Tweezers are helpful in placing seeds in the center of starter cells. Cover seeds with a quarter-inch of vermiculite and maintain a temperature of 70-75 degrees. Keep the starter mix barely moist (not wet) to reduce damping off disease. Bottom water to avoid dislodging seeds. You should see signs of germination in 10 days.

Deadheading will cause the plants to produce more flower heads, but I always leave a few spent flowers to encourage self-seeding. Celosia argentea var. spicata may reseed a little too enthusiastically for some gardeners. Plants reach to 24-inches with a 12-inch spread in good soil. Taller plants may need to be staked. Skip the staking by purchasing some of the newer, dwarf cultivars, available as plants.

Celosia is a good choice for pollinator gardens and cutting gardens. It is not a space hog, and will work well in small beds. Plants look especially good when planted in masses. Dwarf types can also be grown in containers.

The accompanying photos are courtesy of the National Garden Bureau. #NGB #YearoftheCelosia

First Flame Mix

Wicked Evanthia

Intenz Dark Purple

Asian Garden Primary

Act Series Evanthia

Kurume Rose Takii

Lovely Loropetalum, Chinese Fringe Flower

Amidst all the warm colors of autumn leaves, the deep burgundy or wine-colored foliage of Loropetalum provides a wonderful contrast.

When Loropetalum became widespread in garden centers in the late 1980’s, their deep burgundy foliage and hot pink flowers immediately became popular. White flowered, green-leaf varieties exist, as do variegated leaf cultivars, but neither are as widely grown as the burgundy-leaf forms. Unfortunately, many of the early introductions grew much larger than their labeled mature heights. Warm nights and the long growing season of the southeast result in taller-than-anticipated shrubs. When used as foundation shrubs, these early introductions required aggressive pruning to restrict size. Several cultivars that were labeled at a three-foot maximum height grew five feet or taller. (If I sold you one of these during my sales stint in a garden nursery, please accept my apology. It was a mistake through ignorance, not malice.)

Shearing Loropetalum into tight orbs or square-edged hedges ruins the graceful arching shape. Taller cultivars (‘Zhuzhou Fuchsia’ is a robust one) can be limbed up to tree forms that rival Crape Myrtles, without the concrete-staining problems of Crape Myrtle seed-pods but also without the lovely exfoliating bark of the Myrtles.

Burgundy-leaf types can take on green tints in the hottest part of the summer. ‘Jazz Hands’ is a cultivar with variegated foliage. New growth is splashed with pink and white. With age, foliage shows less and less variegation, so plan to prune annually to force colorful new growth. The variegation shows best when seen up close, so site your specimens where they can strut their individuality.

Evergreen Loropetalum (pronounced lor-oh-PET-ah-lum) is hardy in zones 7-9. It is heat tolerant, easily transplanted, and not choosy as to soil type, although it may show chlorosis in alkaline soil. Avoid boggy soils. Established shrubs are drought tolerant. They are rarely browsed by deer.

Heaviest bloom occurs in spring, but flowers appear sporadically during other months. Similar to Witchhazel, Loropetalum flowers have strap-like petals that give rise to the common name Fringe Flower. All forms bloom on old growth, so if you trim to generate fresh variegation, be aware that flowering will be reduced.

Check plant labels before purchase to ensure the selected cultivar will suit the planned location. If your site is tight, assume shrubs may exceed the stated dimensions.

Strap-like flower petals look like tufts of fringe, leading to the common name Fringe Flower.

Unpruned shrubs have a lovely, arching stem structure.

Easy, Pretty Tatarian Aster

Asters adorn the fall garden with clouds of blue blooms that show to advantage against yellow goldenrod, orange pumpkins, and the warm shades of autumn leaves. The Asteraceae family was one of the largest until those pesky taxonomists got involved. With their penchant for genetic accuracy, they reclassified North American asters into Symphyotrichum, Eurybia, and a number of smaller classes. For an exhaustive (mind-numbing) discussion of Aster’s new family tree, consult the University of Waterloo’s research report by clicking HERE.

Today’s feature plant, Tatarian Aster, was formerly Aster tataricus and is now Crinitaria tatarica (pronounced krin-ih-TAIR-ee-ah tah-tair-IH-ka). Tatarian Aster is a perennial wildflower with soft lavender-blue, star-shaped flowers held in flat-topped groups. The flowers have 7-20 petals each, arranged around a yellow center. Bees, moths, and butterflies love them. They provide a nectar meal for migrating Monarch butterflies.

Tatarian Asters grow in zones 3-9, in any soil type and almost any pH, and require full sun exposure. Plants are resistant to heat and humidity. They may gain heights of up to six feet, but rarely need to be staked unless they are grown in very fertile soil with plentiful moisture. Unless you enjoy staking, take a Tough Love approach to growing this perennial. Plants grown in rich soils with plentiful moisture can spread aggressively.

The height of Tatarian Aster means it is a good back-of-the-border feature. It is especially pretty when grown along the sunny edges of woodlands, paired with Miscanthus, Muhlenbergia, or other grasses. Deadheading spent blooms will lead to a lengthy flowering season, from late summer all the way to freezing temperatures. In winter, cut the dead foliage back to ground level.

Heat-tolerant Plants

Southeastern gardeners expect July and August to be hot, but the past week has been brutal across most of the country. Millions of Americans experienced “feels like” temperature of 100 degrees or more. Utility providers are pleading for users to reduce their consumption and water restrictions are in place. Everywhere, gardens suffer. I do not have inground irrigation and I refuse to pamper finicky plants. Through the years, I have found a few flowers that will withstand my tough love approach and bloom through steamy weather, with a minimal amount of supplemental water.

Clusters of lavender Society Garlic contrast with the yellow flowers of Rudbeckia, behind. The grass-like foliage has a skunky odor if crushed. Rabbits and deer avoid it.

The small flowerbed close to our entrance is planted with yellow, purple, and orange heat lovers. Purple Coneflowers (Echinacea purpurea ), several Salvia selections, and Society Garlic (Tulbaghia violacea) have purple or lavender flowers, while Purple Heart (Tradescantia pallida) offers violet foliage. They contrast nicely with the butter yellow flowers of annual Melampodium (one of my top performers) and the towering yellow Coneflower, Rudbeckia ‘Herbstonne.’ Orange Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa) flowers in late spring. I cut it back by half and it reblooms in July and August. Finally, Jerusalem Cherry (Solanum pseudocapsicum) has bright orange, inedible fruits that glow against dark green foliage. Jerusalem Cherry can be invasive, so I keep a careful eye on it, removing spent fruits before they can reseed. It was a heritage plant whose ancestors grew in my grandparents’ garden when I was a child. Just to keep things lively, a trio of Shasta Daisy ‘Becky’ contribute a pop of white, with orange-yellow centers. Lots of color, with limited effort.

Other plants that will withstand heat include Lantana, Butterfly Bush (look for sterile Buddleia like the Pugster® series to avoid reseeding), Zinnia, Spider Flower (Cleome hassleriana), Cosmos (both C. sulphurens and C. bipinnatus), Ice Plant (Portulaca), and Turk’s Turban (Malvaviscus). The first three will benefit from deadheading, but the others eject spent flowers unaided.

As our weather patterns change, gardeners can be good stewards of our resources by transitioning away from super-thirsty plants to those that will thrive with less. We do not need to restrict ourselves to only Cacti and desert plants. Small changes made by many people result in large water-use reduction.

Instead of spreading thirsty plants across the entire garden, clustering them in one area will reduce the need for dragging a hose around. Watering your heavy drinkers with a soaker hose will reduce water lost to evaporation. Mulch will reduce evaporation and keep soil cooler.

The butter-yellow flowers of Melampodium contrast with the violet foliage of Purple Heart.

The orange fruits of Jerusalem Cherry draw attention. The orange Zinnia to the left was self-seeded, a volunteer from last year’s dropped seeds. Behind the Society Garlic, peep the yellow flowers of a young Melampodum, also a volunteer seedling.

Bee Balm is Nature's Form of Fireworks

Fireworks exploded across the nation Monday night in celebration of Independence Day. In the garden, Bee Balm (Monarda didyma and Monarda fistulosa) blooms are exploding into Nature’s version of fireworks. Monarda is pronounced moe-NAR-da.

Bee Balm is a heat-loving, native perennial that should be in every sunny pollinator garden. Its square stems tell the gardener that it is a member of the mint family. Like mint, it spreads aggressively by underground runners and can become invasive if not restrained. Plants are hardy zones 4 through 9. They prefer acid to neutral soil, and tolerate heavy clay. They are heat-tolerant, but moist soil produces a prettier, healthier specimen.

Bee Balm can be propagated by seed, division, or cuttings. To prevent spreading, create a collar by cutting the top 4-5 inches off a nursery pot, then sinking it a couple of inches into the soil around the plant. The collar will serve as a STOP sign to encroaching roots. Be alert for any small plants that manage to evade the barrier. After a couple of years, lift congested plants, divide, and replant.

Plants can reach four feet or more, and may need staking to keep them upright after summer thunderstorms. They tend to flop when grown in part-sun areas. Older cultivars developed a bad reputation for their proclivity to disfiguring mildew and rust. New introductions are both disease resistant and shorter to reduce the need for staking. ‘Jacob Cline’ (red) and ‘Grand Marshall’ (fuchsia to purple) are two mildew-resistant cultivars. Good air circulation helps prevent mildew problems. If your plants fall victim to mildew, try to ignore the ugly leaves rather than using fungicides that may have a negative impact on pollinators.

Bee Balm blooms have a complicated structure which is better demonstrated by a photo than description. Plants have an extended flowering period even if they are not deadheaded, although removing spent flowers make a more attractive show.

Bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds love the flowers, while deer and rabbits leave plants alone. This may be because of the strong fragrance of the foliage. Bee Balm is one of the rare plants that will grow well near Black Walnut trees. The leaves and flowers can be used to make teas or flavor jellies. Presumably, the Oswego Indian tribe brewed the leaves, because a common name that has fallen from wide use is Oswego Tea.

This Bee Balm appears to advantage when seen against a fence.

The equivalent of an “Eat Here” sign for pollinators.

This sign made me giggle. The nursery hired someone who wasn’t familiar with Bee Balm, so the new employee labeled it as he heard it: B Bomb. (I blurred the name of the nursery out of respect.)

Queen Anne's Lace

When a plant’s common name includes “weed” many people are hesitant to introduce them into a cultivated garden. But those same weeds can prove to be resilient, hardy, and attractive. Consider Butterfly Weed (Asclepias) or Iron Weed (Vernonia) as two examples. The downside of growing weeds is the possibility that they can be TOO resilient, even bordering on invasive. That is the case with today’s featured plant, Queen Anne’s Lace.

Queen Anne’s Lace (Daucus carota, pronounced DAW-kus kar-OH-tah) has a fat, carrot-like tap root that helps it survive in hot, dry climates. It is quick to spring up in disturbed areas, and is listed as invasive in more than 20 states. Queen Anne’s Lace, also called Wild Carrot, Bee’s Nest or Devil’s Plague, is a biennial. It develops lacy basal foliage in its first year, then blooms second year. Mature plants range from 2-4 feet, with a narrow footprint. It is found in all the lower 48 states, in full sun to part shade.

Queen Anne’s Lace flowers are flat white umbrels up to four inches across with one little purple flower dot in the middle. If you place cut flowers’ stems in colored water (use a few drops of the same vegetable-based colors used in cake icing), the blooms rapidly take up the dye and will change from white to a pastel shade of the selected color. I thought every child had done this at least once, but it appears I was mistaken.

Spent flower heads curl up on the edges into a brown cup-like form that resembles a bird’s nest. They become brittle when dry. Winds break them off their stems, and they tumble about, spreading seeds far and wide. This promiscuous habit, along with their tolerance for any type soil and any pH, means that they spread everywhere unless consistently deadheaded. Cut stems stink but the smell wanes fast enough to enjoy them as cut flowers. I once had to resort to herbicide to rid a perennial bed of these, and have since decided to just enjoy them along roadsides. They are prolific in my area of the southeast. Bees and butterflies love the flowers, and swallowtail butterfly caterpillars eat the foliage.

Parts of the plants can be cooked and eaten in small quantities, but larger amounts are toxic. Contact with leaves and stems can cause dermatitis. Unless one in starving in the wilderness, I see to need to test out the toxicity threshold. If you feel the need to consume, be positive of your plant identification. Queen Anne’s Lace is easily confused with Wild Parsnip and Wild Hemlock. Consuming either of these can be deadly. Wild Hemlock is the plant that killed Socrates. Its stem has purple spots.

Note the single purple flower in the middle. Not every umbrell has this oddity.

A single plant, flowering in an undeveloped roadside.

A community of Queen Anne’s Lace shows how the plant can multiply into large communities.

Better Behaved Abelia

Modern Abelia cultivars are a vast improvement over the version that was common in every garden several decades ago. Those evergreen or semi-evergreen shrubs grew to heights of six feet or more and threw unruly sprouts that reached for the sky, creating an unkempt appearance. There was a pair of them planted either side of the rear entrance of a local church. Their whippy tentacles waved around like something from The Little Shop of Horrors. You could almost hear them whisper, “Repent!” But I digress.

Glossy Abelia of yesteryear (Linnaea x grandiflora, pronounced LIN-ay-ee-uh gran-duh-FLOR-uh, formerly known as Abelia x grandiflora) was appreciated for its tolerance to heat, drought, humidity, and poor soil. New growth was a bronzy pink, and honeybees swarmed over their nectar-rich tubular pink and white blooms. Unfortunately, to keep them in check, homeowners regularly pruned their arching stems into ugly, tight meatballs.

Current Abelia cultivars have two advantages over the older generations. First, many are available in mature sizes of four feet or less, making them ideal for foundation plantings. ‘Edward Goucher,’ ‘Rose Creek,’ and ‘Little Richard’ are all dwarfs, reaching heights of 36 inches or less. Second, there is a entire rainbow of foliage colors available. ‘Kaleidoscope’ has multicolored foliage with yellow leaves in spring and orange-red in fall. ‘Sunrise’ has green, yellow and white variegated foliage. ‘Confetti’ has pink, green and white foliage (a real stunner, in my opinion).

Abelia is hardy in zones 5-9. It prefers well-drained soil, acidic to neutral, and will accept some drought once established. The bell-shaped pink, rose, white, or lavender flowers attract bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. Flowers open over several weeks in summer, but may appear sporadically at any time. Shrubs are rarely bothered by deer and resist damage from pollution, drought, or salt.

In upstate South Carolina, this ‘Kaleidoscope’ Abelia has scattered blooms on the last day of November . The foliage is yellow, green, orange, and pink.

Same shrub as above. From a distance, the color reads as green and salmon.

Abelia ‘Rose Creek’
Image by Jan Haerer from Pixabay 

Chinese Lantern Tree, Golden Raintree

In September and October, when tree leaves are starting to give a hint of the fall color to come, Koelreuteria bipinnata is putting on a show with its peachy-pink seed pods. This is one of times that it pays to know the binomial (Latin) name of a plant rather than relying on common names. K. bipinnata is commonly called Chinese Flame tree, Golden Flame tree, or Chinese Lantern tree. Its cousin, Koelreuteria paniculata, is commonly called Goldenrain tree. And an unrelated tree, Laburnum, is called Goldenchain tree. To complicate identification further, all three have loose clusters of yellow flowers.

The drooping flower clusters of Koelreuteria bipinnata (kole-roo-TEER-ee-uh bye-pih-NAY-tuh) mature into papery seed pods that look like little (one inch) rosy Chinese lanterns, gaining admiration from observers. It is a small to medium tree, reaching heights up to 40 feet. It thrives in full sun and almost any type of soil as long as it is well drained. The lanterns will retain their warm hue if harvested as soon as they color up. Left on the tree, they age into a buff color before they shed. Each capsule contains viable seeds. Many of those will germinate into baby trees, resulting in the need for removal by the gardener. If you wish to avoid this annual chore, site the tree in a lawn situation where regular mowing will result in seedling decapitation. K. paniculata has similar lantern seed capsules but they are less colorful.

Koelreuterias grow in zones 7-9, ignoring heat, cold, humidity, and poor soil. Laburnum also has lovely yellow flowers that hang in clusters. Branches are an attractive olive green. The young branches of Laburnum are flexible, and can be trained to an arch form. When a row of these join to form a living tunnel, it is gorgeous when they are in bloom. Laburnums do not do well in summer heat, however, and tend to be short-lived in the southeast. Both Koelreuteria and Laburnum are resistant to deer damage.

The immature seed pods of Koelreuteria bipinnata. The pods age to a lovely peachy tone.
Image by Christel SAGNIEZ from Pixabay 

Mature seed capsules, beginning to shed.

The rosy pink seeds are highly decorative
Photo from Wikimedia. https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/User:Avi1111