Smart Choices

Labor Intensive Garden Projects, Part Two

In addition to the Belgian fence and dedicated rose garden I discussed last week, here are a few garden projects that may require more of time investment than is obvious during the planning stages.

Water features and fountains. The sound of trickling water is soothing. Few garden features are as peaceful as a backyard waterfall or flowing pond. The moist environment offers a perfect location for damp-loving plants, either growing in the water or surrounding it. Koi fish add a magical dimension. I could stand and watch them swoosh around for hours. The downside is that raccoons, herons, and even the neighbor’s cat are also attracted to koi. You can take steps to protect your fish from becoming dinner by making a deeper pond reservoir (2-3 feet deep), creating hiding spots with stones, pipes, or tunnels, or draping the area with protective netting. Netting has the downside of catching leaves that must be removed for the best appearance. Without it, leaves sink, rot, encourage algae growth, and clog filters. Your location will determine frequency of cleaning. Temporarily lowering the water level makes the task a little easier, but it’s never fun. Water quality must be monitored to maintain clarity without harming the fish or damaging the circulating pump. Pond liners will eventually leak and pumps will eventually need replacement. Be sure to factor in the ongoing maintenance expense beyond the initial plumbing, electricity, and installation expenses. A deeper pool may also present safety concerns if  your garden is accessible to children.

Koi and water lilies

Fountains are not as time consuming as ponds, but they still require regular maintenance to remove algae, leaves, and debris. Any stagnant water encourages mosquitos. Large fountains are heavy and expensive; smaller fountains are more vulnerable to freezing and breakage.

Wildflower meadow gardens. Imagination paints a mental image of multicolored flowers swaying in the breeze, punctuated by tall clumps of native grasses. Sadly, the reality is less romantic. For most species, the flowering window lasts only a few weeks. Good friends of mine moved into a new home with a large, sloped front yard and wanted something more interesting than lawn. They hired a well-known native plant professional to design and install a wildflower meadow. The area was tilled and sown with a combination of seeds selected for staggered bloom times. Birds immediately feasted at the new seed buffet, leaving a few bare areas. The wildflowers came up in patches  – but so did the native blackberry bramble, horse nettle, dock, pigweed, dandelions, and assorted other nasties. The amount of time and energy spent removing these by hand was overwhelming. In theory, the wildflowers should have reseeded themselves for future years but this meant no mowing could be done until all late fall. The result was a bedraggled landscape that looked abandoned. No matter what internet photos show you, there will be a time period when a wildflower garden looks unkempt.

A wildflower bed at its best, early spring

Formal knot gardens and parterres. These designs appeal to gardeners inspired by formal gardens in England, France, or Italy. Yes, you can create boxwood hedges trimmed into intricate shapes. For the perfect appearance, the area must be flat, must be weed-free, and must be trimmed frequently. A tight pattern means limited access space, so you must also be a bit of a contortionist. Any concentration of the same plants, known as a monoculture, invites disease. If a single plant fails, or if a dog decides to mark his territory, the beauty of symmetry is upset, at least temporarily. And, oh my goodness, the time required to maintain the tight design.

A highly maintained knot garden at the Chateau de Villandry

Topiary. Topiaries require frequent, careful trimming and, if we are honest, something of an artistic skill. There are two types of topiary, one in which the plant provides the entire structure and the other in which a metal frame is stuffed with a growing media (sheet moss, coir, soil, grow bags) and usually some type of concealed watering system. The shape of the frame dictates the result. The stunning examples seen in botanical gardens are typically maintained by paid staff (see photos below).

I don’t have the time, talent, or desire to recreate something this elaborate in my own garden. I love the appearance of topiary, and recommend a visit to the Pearl Fryar Topiary Garden in Bishopville, SC. To satisfy my simple desires, I trimmed Compacta hollies (Ilex crenata ‘Compacta’) into a series of cones on either side of my front entry walkway. They required pruning three times a year, which did not feel burdensome because I enjoyed lighting them at Christmas, where they resembled holiday gumdrops. (Sounds cheesy, but I loved them.) I did the same for a pair of Osmanthus ‘Goshiki’ on the shady side of the garage.

Conical variegated shrubs surrounded by low-growing groundcover

Osmanthus heterophyllus ‘Goshiki’ pruned to tight conical topiaries. The groundcover is Sedum acre.

Plan garden features that you love. But be realistic about the time needed to maintain them.

In a future blog, I will share how one type of topiary, called “poodling,” gave a misshapen conifer a new lease on life in my garden.

Labor Intensive Garden Projects, Part One

It’s easy to imagine lovely garden features. Daydreams are free; installation and maintenance are not. Some of the ideas that capture our hearts turn out to be far more demanding than we anticipated. Let me share a couple of personal experiences.

Years ago, my husband and I visited the UK, where I saw what appeared to be a living fence. A simple wooden frame was strung with diagonal wires, and a vine had been trained into a precise, lattice-like pattern. I learned it was called a Belgian fence, often used to block unpleasant views. That image lodged itself firmly in my brain and waited there until I had no choice but to attempt one in my own garden.

I read everything I could about Belgian fence construction, then built my own. First steps were to sink base posts deep into the ground so that a heavy, vine-covered wire trellis would be securely supported. I built a seven-foot square frame out of treated wood and attached it to the sunken supports with metal hinges so that I could lay the unit down should I need to maintain the building behind it. I secured the top of the frame to the building with more screw hooks and two lengths of lightweight chain. So far, so good. I screwed eye hooks into the frame at measured intervals and ran diagonal wires across to create an open trellis. Finally, I planted several small-leaf ivy plants at the base of the frame, watered, fertilized, and hoped.

It didn’t take long until the ivy did what ivy is supposed to do – It started twining around the wires and growing its way to the top. Unfortunately, I installed the fence and its sunken base a mere 24 inches from the ugly outbuilding it was meant to conceal. The ivy quickly ignored my carefully placed wires and reached instead for the wooden barn, attaching itself with sticky aerial roots. This resulted in monthly pruning sessions and the constant addition of wire to redirect the plants where I wanted them to go. After four years of effort, the fence finally achieved full coverage. By then, I was so tired of maintaining it that I promptly removed the entire thing.

Vine grown on trellis against red wood building

Not content with having one time drain in my garden, I announced my intent to install a bed of hybrid tea roses along the side of our Victorian farmhouse, where I could sit on the veranda and enjoy flowers and fragrance. My husband (I refer to him as Saint Jim because of his never-ending patience with my “projects”) tried to convince me otherwise, but politely stepped aside to allow me to fail on my own.

Planning the rose bed was a great deal of fun. I perused books and even joined the American Rose Society so that I would have access to their manual on selecting roses. The manual was priceless, since it numerically rated the success of roses across the US. I learned which ones were stingy bloomers and which ones were more prone to insect and disease damage.

Spoiler alert: After installing 26 roses, a combination of hybrid teas, floribundas, grandifloras, and one China rose, I learned the sad truth. ALL roses grown in the humid southeast are prone to diseases (especially black spot) and insects (especially thrips, aphids, Japanese beetles). They were lovely when they were in flower, homely when they were not. I grew tired of spraying and pruning and more spraying. In a few years, the rose bed was a distant memory and a life lesson.

This blog is not meant to be a downer. I just want to share that not all beautiful garden features in other locations can be replicated in your own garden without extensive time and trouble.

Next week: A few more time-intensive projects you might want to reconsider.